Guide to Bergamo, Lombardy, Italy
Posted by Karen Bryan
Bergamo is a little known beautiful medieval city in northern
Italy, near the Lakes. This guide will help you get the most
out of a visit to the city.
Unique Points
Bergamo is a beautiful city, with a medieval hilltop old town.
 It is easily reached by Ryanair flights from Glasgow,
London, Paris, Girona, Brussels, Frankfurt, Hamburg and
Stockholm, making it an ideal short break destination. Â The
airport is near the city and can be reached by regular buses,
costing around one euro. The walled old town, reached by
funicular, is well preserved. Â The Academia Carrera is said
to be one of the best collections of art in Italy. Â The
surrounding countryside is very beautiful; there are
churches in many small villages with medival frescoes and
paintings. Â Nearby is Lake Iseo, which has the largest lake
island in Europe. Â The famous Valpolcia and Franciacorta
wines are produced locally. North of the city are the Pre Alps
and the Valle Bremabana. History of Bergamo
Bergamo is a real life tale of two cities: Bergamo Alta, the
beautiful walled hilltop medieval city, and Bergamo Bassa,
the lower city, built mainly at the beginning of the 20th
century. Bergamo has long been acknowledged as a
beautiful city. The 14th century Italian scholar, poet and
humanist, Francesco Petrarca remarked, "I shall always
remember the image of Bergamo, Italy's alpine town." This
is praise indeed as Petrarch is regarded as one of Italy's
great scholars and a leading contributor the in the
development of the Renaissance. Bargamo, originally known as Barra, is said to have
founded by Cydno, the son of the founder of the Liguri
family. Â The Etruscans turned the city into a fortress in the
sixth century BC. Its location made it ideal as they could see
right over the plains below and spot any advancing enemy.
Later that century the city was taken over by the Cenomani
Gauls, who renamed it Berghem ('city on the mountain').
 The spread of the Roman Empire brought about a slight
change in name to Bergomum and it was during this period
that the first walls were built around the city. Â The city was
dominated by the Longobaords and Franks before
becoming a free town in the 12th century. However for
several centuries from 1428 the Venetians dominated
Bergamo. Â This was a long period of social, political and
cultural wealth. Â The walls were rebuilt in the 16th century by
the Republic of Venice. During the French Revolution
Bergamo was part of the French Cisapine Republic. Â After
the Congress of Vienna the Austrians ruled until the
unification of Italy in 1859. The heart of the old town is 15th century Piazza Vecchia.Â
The main entrance is the Sant'Agostoa gate, the walls
extend for more than five kilometres and there are four
gates. Â The portico of the Palazzo della Ragione, which sits
in Piazza Vecchia, dates from the 12th century. Â The potico
leads in to the Piazza del Duomo. Here is the church of
Santa Maria also dating from the 12th century. The church
has an octagonal dome. Â There are still traces of the
original frescoes depicting the "tree of life". Â The wooden
confessional was produced in 1705 by Andrea Fontani.
 Bergamo's favourite musical son Donizetti's tomb is at the
back of the church.
Gaetnao Donizetti was born in 1797 just outside the city
walls, at the start of Borge Canale. Â He produced more then
seventy compositions "Elisir d'Amore" (1832) "Lucia di
Lammermoor" (1835). Â It is said that he was always
emotionally attached to Bergamo. The Donizetti Theatre,
named in his honour, hosts an international piano festival. Colleoni Chapel is another fine example of Rennaisance
architecture. Bartolomeo Colleoni, born in Bergamo,
commissioned this as his tomb. Â The building was
completed in 1476. Â Colleoni is portrayed on a golden
horse. He is usually referred to as a "soldier of fortune", a
less harsh description than mercenary. This may be
because he was regarded as fairly respectable, as
although he changed sides, he never committed any
treacherous acts or rape and executions in the defeated
territories. Â His father was attacked and murdered when
Bartolomeo was young, by the Duke of Milan. Â He spent
several years as a young man serving in various armies. Â At
the age of 32 he joined the army of the Venetian Republic.
 He was also known for his work on agricultural
improvements made to the land on the estates given to him
as reward by the Venetians. The Venetian Lorenzo Lotto worked here in 1525. Â Lotto's
work encompassed the work of Bramante, Raffaello and
Leonardi. Â Lorenzo Lotto spent 12 years working in
Bergamo. Â Although originally from Venice, he considered
Bergamo to be his spiritual home, appreciating its down to
earth approach to religion and faith. Â In 1525 he worked on
the Episode from the life of Mary in the Church San Michele
al Pozzo Bianca. Â Several churches in Bergamo are adorned
with his altarpieces. Â Itineraries on a Lotto theme can be
found here. Accademia Carrara is one of the most important galleries in
Italy. It was founded in 1796 by Count Carrara. Â It now
houses more than 18000 pieces, including pieces by
Botticelli, Raffaello,Bellini and Donatella. There are also
works by foreign artists such as Rubens and Clouet. The Accademia  is also the Bergamo Museum.  There are
paintings depicting the town from the 15th  to the 19th
century. Â The Gallery of Modern Art is nearby. The Gruppo Guide Citta di Bergamo, tel 035 249553, offer
half day and full day tours. They have English, German,
Spanish and French guides. Every Sunday from 25th April 2004, you can take a guided
tour of historic homes in Bergamo, the Tour Dimore
Storiche. A ticket for all five residences cost 16 euros, for
three residences the cost is 12 euros. Accommodation in Bergamo Hotel Capello d'Oro
This four star hotel is in the centre of the lower town, a few
minutes walk from the funicular railway up to the old town
and the railway station. The rooms are very comfortable with
tea and coffee making facilities. Â Prices start from 150 euros
per night for a double room and buffet breakfast. Residence
Giva
This renovated traditional apartment block is located around
500 metres from the centre of Bergamo and around one
kilometre from the medieval part of the city. Bergamo is an
ideal base from which to visit the Lakes, Verona and Milan.
There are frequent trains to most destinations or if you
prefer to tour by car, parking is available close to the
residence.
The apartments are elegantly furnished. An apartment for
two costs 100 euros per night or 500 euros per week.
Castello di Grumello, near Bergamo
The rooms inside the castle cost 82 euros per person per
night, including breakfast. Â If you stay in a room in the
grounds, in a 19th century building 50 metres from the
castle with view of the vineyards, the cost is 60 euros per
person per night. Where to eat in Bergamo
Da Vittorio, Viale Giovanni XX111 21, tel: 035 218060.
This is a long established restaurant in the old town. Â A few
of their specialties are oxtail tureen, pumpkin flowers in
sauce as well as outstanding seafood. Â It is an
unpretentious family run concern. Lio Pellegrini, Via San Tommaso 47, tel 035 247813.
This restaurant is situated in a 16th century sacristy, close
to Accademia Carrara in the lower town, it has a lovely
garden for summer dining. They serve numerous types of
pasta and some really tempting desserts. Ol Giopi e la Margi, Via Borgo Palazzo 27, tel 035 242366
This popular restaurant is decorated in typical country style
and waiting staff wear traditional costume. They havea
good choice of menus , a business lunch, a traditional meal
and three gastronomic menus. The menus change every
season. The restaurant is closed on Sunday evening and
Mondays. Osteria San Rocco, Via S Rocco, 11 Rancia, tel 035 510067
This restaurant is situated in the hills, five kilometres from
Bergamo. You can view the menu on their website. Day trips from Bergamo Crespi d'Adda This factory and village was built in the late 19th century by
the Crespi family as an industrial utopia. Â The life of the
workers, their families and the community were planned in
order and harmony. In theory ensuring that the workers
would be productive and content and the factory owners
could make a healthy profit with a clear conscience. The
experiment ended in the 1920s but the village, now listed on
the UNESCO World Heritage List, is still inhabited,
predominantly by the descendents of the original village.
The factory is still operational, producing cotton textiles.
The village is around a half hour drive from Bergamo. It can
be reached by public transport, you take the Autostrade bus
direction Milan, you get off at the Capriate bus stop and then
it's a twenty minute walk to the village.
You can read more about the village on their website. Castello di Grumello This castle overlooks the village of Grumello del Monte and
the surrounding vineyards. Â The parish church in the village
dates form the 7th century. It is in the heart of the Valcalepio
region. The castle has a long and bloody history. However
in the 18th century the castle was transformed in to a noble
residence. Â The tower, the back gate, the Knights Hall and
the cellar still remain from the original medieval fortress. Â If you call ahead, tel 035 442 0817, you can arrange a visit to
the wine cellar and the castle. They will explain how the
wine is made and tasting of the various wines. This costs
eight euros per person. Â There is also a pleasant walk
through the vineyards to the crest of the "Colle Calvario". Lake Iseo The lesser known, smaller Lake Iseo is ideal for a day trip
from Bergamo. You can read more about the lake in my
guide. If you have a hire car you can drive around the Lake in a day.
 You can reach Iseo town by bus from Bergamo.
On specific Sundays in 2004, the 5th, 9th and 19th, there is
a trip from Bergamo to Lake Iseo. Â You travel by regular train
from Bergamo to Palazzo, where you pick up the Treno Blu
to Sarnico. Â There are four options available once you arrive
at the Lake, including a visit to the lake island, Monte Isola. Valle Brembana The valley consists of several smaller valleys. The Val San Pellegrino Terme: San Pellegrino is best
known for its sparkling water. Â At the end of the 19th century
San Pellegrino was the most visited spa town in northern
Italy. Â There were art nouveau hotels and a casino designed
by Romolo Squadrelli. Â The casino is now a conference and
exhibition centre.
The Val Serina has an unusual landscape for the Orobic
Prealps with jagged white peaks. Â Bracca mineral water
springs from the Bracca ravine. Â At the top of this gorge the
valley widens and there are some rare wild flowers. Â The
Gromo castle overlooks the River Serio has an intact 13th
century tower. Â To visit you must telephone the Posta Castle
Restaurant, tel 0346 41002. Cornello dei Tasso is a well-preserved medieval village. Â It
was an inn station along the main trading route. In the lower
part of the village is the market square with its arches and
merchants' lodgings, some still bearing the coat of arms of
the Tasso family.
The village was home to the Tasso family who are said to
be the inventors of the postal service. Â At first mail was
carried by foot, later the service started to use horses with
despatch riders and then mail coaches. Â A private company
was formed, the Campagnia dei Corrieri, which won
contracts to carry mail in the Republic of Venice and later in
the 15th century, contracts in the Papal States and the
Hapsburg Empire.
Val Taleggio e Brembilla is nicknamed the Cheese Valley,
as traditional cheeses are produced here. Â Formai de Mut is
a rich, half cooked paste cheese with a delicate scented
flavour. Â During the summer it is made in alpine huts, near
the high grazing pastures. Â Taleggio cheese is a rich soft
paste cheese made with whole cows' milk. One of the
characteristic dishes of the region is Polenta Taranga,
where the cheese is melted with butter in the maize
porridge. Val Fondra is on the eastern side of high part of the Bremba
Valley, traditionally the location of ancient mines and forges.
The ski resort of San Simone and Foppolo are in this valley. The Museum of Christmas Cribs, Museo del Presepio, in
Brembo di Dalmine, is unique with over 800 cribs on
display. There is even an electronic crib covering 80 square
metres, with a seventeen minute spectacle. Â In December
and January it is open on Sundays and public holidays form
9.00 - 12.00 and 14.00 - 19.00. Â The rest of the year it is only
open on a Sunday 14.00 - 18.00. The museum is around
ten kilometres from Bergamo. Useful Information Bergamo Tourist Office, Viale Vittorio Emanuele, (the main
road from the station up to the old town), tel 035 230 184. Karen is a travel writer and consultant specialising in
planning tailor made travel to undiscovered Europe. Her site
is
http://www.europealacarte.co.uk
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