Dunmore East, Ireland: A Nearly Perfect Irish Village
Posted by Marc Hurwitz
Ireland has many great cities, towns, and villages. But few can match tiny Dunmore East when it comes to charm, beauty, and warmth. This town, only a few minutes from bustling Waterford, is a great place to get away from it all
and find out why so many people love the Emerald Isle...
Almost anyone who has been to Ireland on vacation will tell
you that vacationing in the "Emerald Isle" is an unforgettable
experience. There is something about the friendliness of the
people, the haunting beauty of the land, and the incredible
history that makes you want to return again and again.
I found myself in that situation in the summer of 2000, as
finally, after several years of failed attempts to return to
Ireland (I had gone there in 1994), five of us decided to go
for a 10-day trip. We decided to go in May, 2001, which gave
us more than enough time to plan a route. One day, while looking at a map, I noticed a small town
called Dunmore East on a strip of land jutting into the ocean
south of Waterford. I was intrigued by this place and
envisioned a weathered old hamlet that was
quintessentially Irish. This, I hoped, would be one town in
which we would definitely stay. We almost never made it to Dunmore East, thanks to a
bizarre series of events. On the way out of Dublin (where we
had stayed the first night), one of our cars suffered a
blowout, and soon our two cars were hopelessly separated.
We returned to the B&B in Dublin, hoping our two friends
would get in touch. The next morning we heard from them,
and were once again on our way, but we had lost a day. We
quickly passed through the Wicklow Mountains and, after
what seemed like an eternity, we pulled into Waterford and
continued along the winding road toward Dunmore East.
After ten miles of driving through rolling farmland and
windswept ridges, we finally saw houses and lights in the
distance. We pulled into Dunmore East just as the sun was
setting behind us. Coming down the hill into town, we saw
the ocean in front of us. This was indeed a spectacular
location. Our B&B was on the main street overlooking the harbor. It
was foggy, and we could just make out the green cliffs that
formed the harbor. Down the hill from the B&B was an inn
and a pub on the water. Winding lanes, a church and old
cemetery, a park, and thatched-roof houses all added a
unique charm to the village. Seaside villages can often have an eerie, surreal
atmosphere to them at dusk, and Dunmore East was no
exception. The combination of waning light and
ever-increasing fog caused the town to take on a haunting
look. Across the street from the B&B, there was a small park
with a memorial overlooking the cliffs and the harbor. A
single streetlight just added to the incredible scene. I must
have taken a half roll of film at that spot, trying to get the
perfect picture of a truly unique place. While in the pub at the mouth of the harbor, we met friendly
locals and European tourists. Like the owners of the B&B,
they were surprised that Americans would know about
Dunmore East. They said that the town tends to cater to
Europeans, and that people from the U.S. are rarely found
here. Ironically, one of the owners of the B&B was a New
Jersey native who fell in love with the village. Dunmore East is the type of place where you park your car
upon arriving, and do not use it until you leave. It is a very
walkable town, with everything being within a 1-square-mile
radius. I spent the afternoon of our second day there doing
just that, and discovered places in town that people in cars
would clearly miss. For instance, there was a sprawling
park with benches, paths down to the rocky coast, and
grassy areas for lying in the sun. There was also a winding
road that ended up at a small beach called (I believe),
"Ladies View." It was a pristine place with views of the
harbor, driftwood along the beach, and salt spray in the air.
I continued my walk along a coastal road, and soon found
myself walking into a business district. I had accidentally
discovered "downtown" Dunmore East! Apparently, we were
staying in the harbor part of town, which we had mistaken
for the village itself. The center of town was very charming,
with several old shops, a few pubs, and some more
winding lanes. On our second and final night in Dunmore East, we ended
up eating at one of the pubs in the center of town. After
dinner, we walked back to the B&B through the mist and fog,
wishing that we could stay a few more nights. But alas, we
had to move on, and though we found some terrific places
in the next several days, nothing beat this little seaside
village south of Waterford. Marc is a writer who has helped create two major Web sites:
Boston's Hidden
Restaurants, a restaurant guide that
features top little-known dining spots in Boston and New
England, and Travel Guide of
America,
a US travel guide that focuses on interesting cities, towns,
and villages that are vacation destinations. This entry is
from a series of travel
essays from Marc's personal Web site.
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